After the temple we caught another bus, a brief walk and then onto a 1 car train/tram further north where we arrive at the base of the mountains in the north east area of Kyoto. To visit the top of the mountain we needed to catch the cable train, and a connecting cable car. Once at the top we find out that we have to pay more money to visit the gardens and cafe area, the view alone was worth it. The main lookout had views to the east where we could see Moriyama. We took a walk through the gardens, but decided that we could hold off eating until we made it back to Kyoto city area as the menu prices seemed to match the altitude. I noticed what seemed to be a rundown building off to the side of the mountain. Looking through the cameras zoom lens I could spot people picnicking on the deck of this building. A short but very steep walk down the hill took us to an abandoned artificial ski field. Of course I found myself in photography heaven, spending some time snooping around clicking.

After the climb back to the top, we decided to head back down the mountain, this time using the cable car on the other side of the mountain, however we had to catch yet another bus which would take us to the cable car station. The view down was as amazing as the view going up. Along the way we passed through a lengthy tunnel and also to shrine/temples which had their own cable car stations.

At the bottom we caught another bus to take us to Hieizan Sakamoto station, which we then caught a train to Kyoto station. After trying to find somewhere nice for dinner the night before, we thought we’d try out luck again. We found a restaurant towards the top of station/mall with a decent view of the city and tower. The food was a little expensive, we paid around 40 bucks for not a great deal of food, nether the less it was still tasty. I wasn’t entirely sure everything we had ordered made its way out of the kitchen.

Next it was time to head back to our hotel, via the subway, where we collected our bags and headed back to Kyoto to catch our Shikansen back to Shin-Osaka. A subway train back to a very familiar Tanamichi4-chome station, on the way to our also familiar hotel, Weekly Mansion. Along the way we stopped in at the 99 yen shop (which is like 7/11 but most items and 99 yen), where we picked up a few supplies for dinner and breakfast. Our room was 1 floor down from our original stay, with the room being in the exact same position, size and shape, however this time we were left without an internet connection. Tara fell asleep watching a Japanese dubbed movie. After I headed out to get some more milk as the milk Tara had bought for breakfast was sour (probably because it said sour on the carton, but we can’t read Japanese). I then fell asleep in front of the TV. End of day 12.

Highlights:
1. Cable trains and cars.
2. Abandoned ski resort.
3. 1 Carriage train/tram.
4. Ginkakuji temple.
5. Finding ‘cider’ lollies (lemon flavoured sour things)
6. Crazy French inspired gardens and art gallery.

First up on our to do list today is heading to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. When we arrive we discover you actually have to go to an office on the site and apply to enter and have a look around and Ricky and I decide we can’t really be stuffed. We walk around the rest of the gardens, taking photos like the tourists we are until we find ourselves at Maratamachi Station. We jump on a train and head to the Nijo Castle site but Ricky is a bit disorientated and I’m not concentrating. We get off at the right stop but Ricky thinks it the wrong one so we run across the platform and we’re on another train before I can even tell whats going on. As soon as we leave I realise that was our station and so it’s back to Maratamachi Station again and then back onto another train back to Nijijo. Finally we make it to the castle and it is while I am purchaing our admissions two giggling school girls come and ask Ricky for a photo with him. Ricky’s not sure why but the whole way around the castle when I’m not near him people stop and ask for a photo with him. We conclude it’s porbably his aviator sunnies.

The castle itself is very different to others we have seen. Less flambouyant and more of a solid wood construction with artworks painted on the walls and ceilings. I read a sign on the wall that tells us the reason why the floors are so squeaky (they are really squeaky!) is so that people would hear if intruders were trying to sneak their way in. Amazing to think when this building was constructed in 16c and completed by 1626. The gardens surrounding are very spacious and Ricky and I have a stroll before we sit down and enjoy a drink of peach soft drink. A school teacher walks past and says ‘hello to Ricky’ to which Ricky responds ‘hello, genki deska?’ and the school teacher pretends to fall over in shock because he doesn’t know what to say. Ricky and I find this hilarious.

Soon we are on a bus to the Golden Temple (Kinkakuji Temple) but I mistake or bus stop exit and we have to walk the rest of the way. When we arrive we see a Giesha dressed up posing in photos which kind of annoys me. I would much prefer for there to be 10x less touristy stuff at these places like that.. but then again, it’s a tourist spot. The temple is pretty amazing, and indeed it is very gold. It sits on the edge of a huge chinese water garden which winds around the temple. At the exit Japanese school students keep asking for photos with us or interview us as part of school assignments. It is absolutley hilarious and we feel like we are on display as much as the temple itself.

Next up we walk to what we think will be a train station but it ends up being a very old tram system station. We catch it to the end of the line so we can go and see the famous Kyoto bridge Togetsukyo. We have planned it so we can go there at sunset and we arrive just in time. There is a crazy Japanese man playing guitar and singing hooked up to a small amp and he sings for the whole hour we are there. The shops are closing so I go and have a look at some stuff and miss the main part of the sun down. What an idiot. Ricky has filmed the whole thing though so at least I can look at it on camera.

We leave Arashiyama and head back to our hotel room. At the station we accidently purchase 2 tickets to the foot spa instead of tram tickets and we are wondering why we have been given some towels to catch the tram with. The tram terminates at a brand new station called Randen Tenjingawa station and we cross the road to get to the subway passing a bike parking lot which we think is so stranglely hilarious. We catch the train straight back to our hotel, realising that it’s getting quite late so soon we are out the door again. We go to Kyoto station for a feed and to pick up some batteries and a computer lead from nearby.

We catch the train back to our hotel station and head to Seven Eleven for some midnight snacks. We also discover a cool bookshop which Ricky buys a Japanese photography book from and leaves his bag of computers leads and batteries there by accident. We arrive back to the hotel and Ricky realises so it’s back to the shop for him. They have it behind the counter which is lucky for him.

Kyoto is awesome.

The three of us started our day started with a trip to the golden arches for breakfast. We all had a combination of a sausage, bacon and egg mc muffin, except there was 2 lots of sausage and it seemed to be a standard menu item. It was pretty much wrong and we ate outside because inside was too smokey. Next we caught trains to get to Shabuya, then changed to the subway line to get to Kirosumishirakawa and walked to get to the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo. We saw three excellent exhibitions and purchased a book about one of the artists whose work was on display. After we used the free internet at the MOT to try and find some hotels for our visit to Kyoto. We wrote down a few numbers, Jo had to leave to get ready for work.

Shortly after we caught a few trains back to Yokohama where we got some more batteries for Tara’s camera and tried calling the hotels we had looked at, all were booked out. We then tried to find and internet cafe but had no luck. So it was back to the internet cafe at Hodogaia, another case of getting on the wrong train costed us more time. We ended up back at Yokohama, but finally got to say goodbye to Jo properly. Finally we made it back to the right station, and got to the internet cafe where we searched a few sites before finding a room in the Kyoto Hotel Kiru for pretty cheap, well, compared to their normal room rates. And we could book it online, so we were glad that we had a room for 2 nights. The internet girls were a bit annoying, charging us for 2 lots of internet usage because they didn’t understand that all we wanted was 1 computer with 2 chairs. Apparently it didn’t work like that, but it didn’t worry me, as we had finally booked something.
So, now it was time to head back to Jo’s place to get our stuff packed and leave a note (I also left her a $2 coin to remind her of home) before catching more trains to get to Shin Yokohama, where we booked out Shinkansen ticket for Kyoto.  We got the platform right, and made the train on time. We both were dead tired on the trip to Kyoto after such a long day, I think I fell asleep for a bit along the way.

After arriving in Kyoto, we needed to find out way to the hotel, which meant 2 subways trains to Shiyakusho-Mae station. Lucky for us the hotel was directly above the station and had its own exit. We couldn’t believe our eyes. The hotel was full of class, by now the time is about 8PM????? but I was very glad to be finally getting a decent nights sleep. We even had a bell hop take our bags up for us. The hotel staff were friendly and spoke pretty good english. After checking our emails and catching on our blog writing it was bed time. End of day 10.

Highlights:
1. Big cheap bottles of booze and a small liquor store.
2. The girls had fun playing with the Holga and Dianna cameras.
3. Sneakily taking pics inside the art gallery and Jo getting caught.
4. The art gallery.
5. Our hotel!

Low points of our day:
1. Leaving Jo!
2. Catching wrong trains again!
3. Stressful accommodation booking.
4. Dumb internet cafe girls making us pay for 2 computers when we only used 1.
5. Leaving Jo.

I can tick that one off.

Then we head back over to the World Porters building where we had ended up a few days before. Ricky wants a new jacket because all his clothes stink from the night before and the wind is cutting straight through his jumper. Plus it’s all about camping at the moment because June long weekend is fast approaching and he needs the right attire. I accidentally discover a shrine to the beloved Holga camera on a trip to find the toilet. I am excited because there is so much awesome stuff there and I really wanted to get one of these and take photos in Japan with it. Ricky find his jacket and I find my camera but we need money back in our savings account. First we decide to each lunch before going on a mission and we head to the Shabu Shabu restaurant Jo has recommended for us to eat at called Shabu Yo.

This place is awesome. You get an hour of all you can eat but you cook it yourself from the fresh ingredients provided. We have a big pot that looks like a Yin and Yang symbol, one side with water and the other with curry water. We are not really sure what we are doing so we go and grab lots of fresh veggies, noodles and some chicken and throw it in to the pot. True to Ricky’s character he chooses pretty much only mushrooms to go into his side of the pot. We also have trays of thinly sliced pork and beef and we throw that in the pot too. It’s tasty and awesome and I’m glad I know how to make an easy Japanese soup now. It costs us about 1500 yen each including cold drinks, tea, coffee and soft serve.

Tick.

Off we go back to Sakuragicho station where we find a information kiosk and we pay 100 yen for 10 minutes of internet. Scammers! Then it’s back to World Porters again (this is a 10 minute trip each way) where Ricky buys his Jacket after a long decision making process and I buy my beloved camera finally with lots of nick nacks to go with it. I found Dad a GIANT calculator which I’m sure he would have loved, but I decide I should probably take small things home, not big as we still need to go to Kyoto.

I can tick the camera off now too.

Next we head back to Hurajuku. Jo saw some really awesome leopard print gum boots she wanted the other day when we were there and Ricky and I decide to buy them for her as as thankyou for putting up with us. After we walk up and down the street four times I remember it’s in another and we go and secure the boots before making our way back to the station and onto Roppongi.

Jo’s friend Ash had told us to go here instead of Tokyo Tower but we are not really sure what it is or where. We arrive and discover that Roppongi Hills is a giant building with the Mori Art Museum at the very top. Excitement plus! We pay $15 for a combination ticket to go up and they have a massive viewing area that over looks Tokyo and the Tokyo Tower and as it is night time by now, the view is amazing. The ticket also gets us into the ‘A Retrospective Of The Turner Prize’ exhibition. The first part of the exhibition is a little bland but the rest is quite amazing in parts and I’m really glad we stumbled upon this place.

Another tick off the list.

We end up leaving at 10:30pm and it takes us 6 trains to get home, partly because 2 of them terminate on us. By the time we arrive home it is midnight and we are both knackered but we haven’t had dinner yet so it’s off to the convenience store. For 8 bucks we get 2 sushi rolls, a can of alcohol (for Ricky of course), a packet of bread chips, a box of pumpkin flavoured pringles and a box of noodles! That is so bloody cheap!!!

Soon we are home and after playing with the new camera for a little while, we’re off to sleep.

Highlights:
1. Seeing people being woken up by the train guards then the train terminates.
2. Art gallery and tower view of Tokyo.
3. Seeing Jo excited about our present to her.
4. Playing with toe camera toy thingy (Tara’s words)
5. Lunch and the Shobu Shobu place.
6. Trying snacks and treats after getting home late.

The bus stopped at the top and dropped us off and we headed for the main street of the lake. To say it was cold was an understatement. We walked down the street, looking for a cafe to get something for breakfast and to warm up, but everything seemed to be shut, except for this little cafe on the edge of the lake. Tara had pizza toast and I had toast and jam. The coffee was poor, surprise surprise! We got a few engrish shots from the menu. I took some shots of the lake, as we headed back to the Kegon Falls. Tara finally got to see a few Cherry Blossoms, just a few.

I noticed on the map that there was an elevator to get to the falls, I thought it seemed a little odd, as every waterfall I’ve ever visited was a bit of a hike down a mountain. Turns out that someones capitalised on it, and is charging 530 yen to get down to see it. There were shops and cafes around the top and a gift shop at the bottom. Plenty of school kids out on an excursion, a few thought they’d try out their english skills with me.

After stopping at the gift shop we headed back towards the bus stop to catch out bus back to Nikko. I wish we could have explored a little more, but we had to get back to Tokyo. At the bus station I noticed a thermometer which read about 5-6 degrees. Inside the bus station was a kerro heater which we huddled around, as did some other Asian tourists. I was asked to be in a photo with some old guy as they thought it was amusing to see an Aussie. Bus back to Nikko, local train to Utsunomiya, and Shinkansen back to Tokyo where we called Jo and made plans to meet up, another train to Yokohama.

Lunch was funny, we decided on an Italian restaurant. We couldn’t order from the Japanese menu because we can’t read Japanese, so we order by taking the waitress outside and pointing at the plastic foods in the window.I chose the spaghetti with egg on top, and Tara had some kind of pasta with mushrooms, she complained how crap it was. Jo and her friend Kanko meet us shortly after and we sat in the restaurant talking for a while.

Next Kanko had to go home and cook dinner for her husband, so Tara, Jo and myself caught a train back to Hodogaya. We stopped to look in a little vintage shop called Herm. I think we were there for hours. The girls we’re going bonkers at all the cool clothing, trying on heaps of outfits. I too got stuck into the swing of things and ended up getting a cool black shirt and maroon jumper. Tired, hungry and in need of a drink, we visit the convenience store near buy to get a “roadie” and head back to Jo’s place to dump our bags and get ready to go out.

Another train back to Yokohama where we meet up with some of Jo’s work friends, Ash and Ben. We’re taken to a busy bar where we sit and dine on various dishes, while drinking plenty of kiwi sours. Ash has the orders coming in quick and fast, and I find myself getting rather pissed. The place is a buzz with young folk out to get a good feed and to have a few drinks. Tara is getting tired and Jo had work in the morning, it was time to leave. We catch the last train home, Jo and I stop in to the convenience store once again to pick up another roadie for the hill climb to get back to her place. We finish our drinks on the verandah while Tara finishes a blog for the day before.

End of day 8.

Highlights:

1. Tourists clapping at Ricky because he is from Australia.
2. Snow (well, we think so anyway)
3. Beautiful bus ride in the misty mountains.
4. Shinkansen ‘hooting’ by at Utsunomiya Station.
5. Yokohama nightlife (getting pissed with Jo and friends)
6. Herm vintage shop!
7. Watching TV on Jo’s phone.

Once we arrive we quickly snatch up an English Nikko tourist guide and we are soon off to Nikko National Park to check out the temples. It takes us about half an hour before we arrive at Sanbutudo Temple. I am immediately drawn to the Japanese Strolling garden opposite the temple and we pay a fee and enter. This place is amazing!!! amazing amazing amazing!!! I have seen a fair few gardens in my life so far thanks to mum but I think this one probably tops them all so far. Ricky and I walk around for a while and I take A LOT of photos before we exit to have a look inside the temples.

Sandutudo temple is notable for it’s 3 HUGE gold statues which all mean something, but now I have forgotten what that is exactly. I wouldn’t say the architecture of the temple was amazing, however Nikkō Tōshō-gū, which was up next, had some pretty intricate detail. This is also the origin of the three wise monkeys with the original carving on one of the outside buildings of the shrine. I found this fact a little exciting because I had grown up with the knowledge of the three wise monekys but didn’t know where they had come from. The main temple required us taking our shoes off and I think my feet were actually going to freeze off. It took away from the experience a little I think as I couldn’t wait to get around and get my shoes back on.

We’re feeling a bit peckish by now so we head down from the temples and eat some traditional ramen for lunch. Ricky had crumbed veal on rice as well. The waitresses and staff find it funny that we can’t make up our minds whether we want udon or soba noodles because we can’t remember which is hot and cold.

Having seen enough temples for a while, Ricky and I head off to see the Jakko waterfall. We walk further away from the town centre until Ricky sees a sign for the waterfall. This is a 2.1k walk from the bottom and then 2.1k back down. If we had have done this again I probably would have tried to get a bus there and back but this time we are walking. On the way up I discovered an empty overgrown swimming pool which delights Ricky to bits so we stop and take some photos there. At the top Ricky also has the opportunity to take more pics with his new b’day presents, his neutral density filter and his gorilla pod.

When we arrive back at the bottom it’s getting to about 4pm. This town is strange and everyone is already packing up shop. Ricky finds a internet cafe at the information centre while I go and stroll around the local shops and then we head down the road to eat some strange pseudo Italian restaurant. We order ‘garlic bread on tomatoe’ and a ‘many mushrooms pizza’ and then top it off with some cake and decent coffee that was a bit cold and costs about $5:50. Coffee here has outrageous prices and the stupid thing is, it’s shit house! By now it’s bloody freezing and we need to get back to the hotel. We buy some Nikko grown and produced pear wine to swig at the hotel which we can barely drink by the time we get back because we are so tired.

When we arrive at the hotel we pay our fee and ask if they have internet. They guy at the desk looks confused… so we ask again. ‘interneto?’ .. ‘ahhh.. hai. interneto..’ The hotel man walks around the desk at reception, picks up the computer, turn it around and sits it on the front counter. Ricky and I are in a fit of giggles because this is just bizarre and then the man is grabbing us some seats from the pokies to sit on while we use it with great enthusiasm. Later I come downstairs to ask for a wine opener and after a little bit of translation troubles and three people running around trying to find my prized possession, I leave armed with my cork screw. Before I leave I notice a dog sitting on the floor of the restaurants kitchen. Holy Moly. I imagine the food police in Australia getting a geezer of that one. (In fact, almost every shop in some parts of Japan, especially in Nikko, come complete with a dog to say hello to). I give this place 5/5 for their service. They certainly go the extra mile.

Our Favs

1. Reception internet use.
2. Seeing a train split in half. One to go in one direction and then the other free to leave in another direction. Thank god we were on the right half.
3. Ricky trying to explain his noodle choice to the waitress. We could hear the cooks laughing in the kicthen.
4. Seeing fire men training upside down and really fast along a rope.
5. Crazy empty pool!
6. 8am town alarm.
7. Super Ultra toilet seat in our lunch resteraunt complete with seat temp adjustment.

Next up was a visit to Yokohama’s bay area, which was only 2 stations from Jo’s place. Straight up we headed for the Yokohama sky building, but discovered we had run out of cash. Windy, wet and with no money, it was time to find an international ATM. We walked over a bridge to a trendy shopping centre where we walked around ‘window7 shopping. I did see some shoes I wanted, but because the Japanese must have real small feet, they didn’t have my size. Next we headed back over to the Yokohama sky building and to go up and have a look around. $10 it cost to go up, but it was well worth it. The lift took about 43secs to make it up to the 69th floor (I think). The view was amazing, we could see Tokyo in the distance, all of Yokohama and the bay area. You can’t visibly see where Yokohama finishes and Tokyo starts. After taking lots of pics, we decided to try the curry in the sky garden restaurant, I also had another watery iced coffee, you’d think I’ve learnt by now.

Approaching 3:15 we dashed back to Yokohama to catch the train to Tokyo in order to get the 4:08 Shinkansen to Utsunomya station. We we’re cutting it fine, real fine. But after a mad dash we missed it, not that it matters, because we have our JR railpass, so we booked another one. This time we had about 5 minutes to make it from the booking office to the platform, but we had to find out which platform we needed. By the time we did that, it was too late. Once again, it was back to the office to book another ticket, and finally caught it.

We got to Utsunomya, with plenty of time for the train to Nikko. So we looked around a little, Tara bought some banana flavoured Kit Kat balls, I got myself a drink. The train to Nikko was great, we got to see the land change from intense city scapes to mountain villages. Plenty of rice fields along the way. It’s about 7:30 and FREEZING, just after getting off at Nikko station, only realising that the hotel we had booked is not in Nikko, it’s actually in Shinagawa, which was about 14km or so away, on another train. They have a a local train system in the region. We found out finally how to get there after lots of squabblingand frustration. With just enough time to grab some dinner at a curry shop. We caught our train, which we needed to get off at Imaichistation, which was 2 stops away. Tara misjudged this one and we got off at the 1st stop. With not a person in sight and the station all closed up, we had the choice of walking to the next station, or wait another hour for the train. So we took the walking option and headed down a few backstreets. It’s unbelievably cold and we got lost a few times, but finally found the station. We checked the time of the next train, and decided that 1 hour was a bit too long to wait.

We thought maybe it was better to just get a taxi, so, we got in one. After travelling about 7km we realised it was going to cost more than we had, and they don’t take Visa! We told the cabbie to pull over and that all we had was 3500 yen. And that’s exactly how far we had gone. He insisted that he take us there dispite in my best efforts to explain that we had no more money. Tara is freaking out and was now in tears, I’m quickly looking in my phrase book to find something to say. We passed a 7/11 and tried to ask him to stop so we could get some cash, nope, he didn’t. So now we think we’re really stuffed. We finally get there and the bill is about 4600 yen. We had a heated argument in the cab outside the hotel, and I tell tara to go ask for help. The cabbie　told me to get out and went to see what Tara was doing, I followed. Inside the hotel guy is trying to book us in, they cabbie is asking for his money, some lady is asking if Tara is ok, another guy is trying to gesture and translate stuff, and I’m flicking through my book trying to find something to say. My thoughts we’re to get the hotel to pay the cabbie, and then we’d put the extra on top of the hotel bill.

The hotel guy is saying NO CARD, the cabbie is saying we owe him and people are speaking very fast, loud and not making much sense. Tara is in tears and I’m at a loss, my phrase book wasn’t getting me out of this one. All of a sudden, the cabbie is leaving and the hotel guy is telling us to say thankyou to him. We thank him and the hotel guy gestures that it’s ok to go sleep. We’re taken up to our room and the guy gestures if we need food. He seems nice and helpful, but all we wanted was to get some sleep and to forget the dramas. After settling in, the guy comes back to tell us that the showers stop at 10. Tara had to wait about 10 mins for the water to get hot. Time to pull out the traditional floor beds (sheesh, my third night on a floor) and watch some TV to get our minds of things. The room is nice and has a traditional feel. We get another knock and it’s our hotel man with giving us an urn to use for making some tea.

Photos to come, our internet machine is locked away somewhere under the desk…

Lights out, end of day 6.

Our top five things for the day: (no particular order)

1. Finding sophisticated toilet seats on the train, with toilet paper hidden in a drawer.
2. Yokohama tower view.
3. The old woman spitting.
4. Nikko and it’s landscape
5. Banana flavoured Kit Kat balls.

I don’t think the Japanese eat fruit! I have had one apple since I have been here because it’s all I can find!! I’m going NUTS!

Anyway, Jo has created us a step by step daily plan so off we go to Ueno. Ueno has a park, shrine and zoo, all of which we don’t end up going to because our brains seem to be in our feet. We arrive and it’s raining. Somehow we end up in a Yodabashi again and then when we come out we don’t know what to do. Ricky purchases an umbrella which I ask if I can share because I have my eye out for a nice Japanese parasol umbrella.. “no! get your own. Umbrellas are personal things.” I felt crushed. My own boyfriend will not share his umbrella with me. (Can I just add, EVERYONE had their OWN umbrella Tara, when you see the pics of Shibuya square you’ll understand why!) Anyone would think it was his tooth brush. I begrudgedｌｙ stomp back into the shop and pay $5 for my own and soon we are heading back to the train station. In hind sight we should have just dealt with the rain but it felt like the whole day we were wondering aimlessly around.

Next we head to Akuhabara, Ricky’s wonderland. This place is crazy with little stores of every single thing you could possibly name to be electrical. Imagine Tandy but 1000 times over and broken up into little stalls, like a market. Well, they have everything except my laptop battery.

“lap top bat ter rie doko des ka?”
“Hai”
“Acer?”
“iee iee iee iee iee” (shakes head)

Soon we are over it and finding ourselves yet again in a Yodobashi. These places are everywhere but Jo has an awesome pin hole camera she got for $45 and I want one badly too as well as some nice Japanese photo albums I saw in Osaka for $10 and should have bought while we were there. No pin hole camera and we’re off back to the station.

We arrive back at the train station and Ricky has lost Jo’s instructions. How annoying. We decide to head back to Shibuya to eat, go on the internet and look around the place. When I think of Tokyo, I think Shibuya. It’s the busiest place and reminds me of time square. We come up out of Shibuya station and there are brollys everywhere in every colour but mainly pastels. I’m excited like big Kev and want to take photos of the square with hundreds of Umbrella crossing at the same time. We go and eat at a Japanese Pasta restaurant with really good food before looking for an ‘intaa netto cafe’. We finally find a crazy place with booths for watching movies, books everywhere, a coffee shop and god knows what else. Ricky can’t stand it for long as it smells of cigarette smoke and soon we are off to Starbucks to take my beloved photos.

By now Ricky has stepped in about 20 puddles. His cons are soaked and his feet are swimming so we decide to head home. We head back to Shibuya station and go to a platform. I should know by now not to trust Ricky’s train instincts! He changes his mind and runs to another platform and soon we are heading in the wrong direction. It’s OK though, Ricky finds a machine that once you put in your destination tells you the quickest route and what platform. Awesome! We are soon on an express train that will take us 30 minutes to Jo’s station.

We stop at Yokohama to try and find a pin hole at Yodabashi. Not the one I want but I find a really cute $10 cardboard flatpack one that will be fun to try out. We head back to Yokohama station and then onto Hodogaya station where Ricky and I raid the convenience store and Ricky finally gets his beloved cider or three (I’ll correct Tara here and say that one was a cider, which more like apple juice. One was something Jo was going to get us to try, but we didnt know it, and the other one was grapefruit!). I try ice cream and an awesome rice covered icecream and molasses filled sweet. I also try a alcoholic popper and it tastes absolutely vile. Ricky also has found Two Dogs grape fruit brew from Australia and is excited.

This and a tube of pizza pringels is dinner tonight.

It’s not long before Jo arrives home. She has been out to an all you can drink and eat birthday dinner and then out to Karaoke. She walks through the door and both Ricky and I get a “I love you” and a hug… stumble stumble before we are both blessed by her rendition of her Karaoke “They’re trying to make me go to rehab and I said ah no no no”.

Ah I love Jo.
And she has to get up at 8am to go to work.  

Tara’s highlights for the day:
1. Yummy Japanese food from the convenience store.
2. Buying a pinhole camera
3. Umbrella land.
4. Trying on $1000 headphones (they did sounds pretty fab).
5. Jo drunk.

Ricky’s highlights of the day:
1. Seeing the same homeless person at Shibuya station, this time with about 4 umbrellas, looks like someone felt sorry for him.
2. Electronic city, I’m shitty I didn’t take photos or video.
3. Breakfast & lunch, very tasty.
4. Finally getting a cider.
5. Watching the crowd cross the street, this time with umbrella.

After checking out and walking to the Tanamichi 4-chome Station we travelled to Umeda subway station, this time we didn’t have our all day pass and had to buy a one way ticked, which is a lote skinnier, and I didn’t think it would go through the same stamping gate machine. I just walked through hold my ticket up expecting things would be ok, but no the gates closed on me and I ploughe through almosting falling flat on my face.  Then it was on to Shink Osaka (shin meaning ‘new’) to catch the Shinkansen. Wow, this train can move! and they say it doesn’t even running at full speed. It made a few stops in major cities before reaching Shin Yokohama. An interesting ride, I didn’t expect there to be so much development alongside the track, 95% of the trip there were houses or industrial areas. Mt Fuji didn’t make an appearence for us as the visibility was poor, maybe on the way back to Osaka I might get a decent shot of it. I had an iced coffee on the train, and in Japan iced coffee is water based, which is a bit odd but still packs a punch. 

Arriving in Shin Yokohama we needed to find out which train to catch in order to get to Jo’s station to meet her. We After finding out we were again lost, we had some difficutly getting found. I spoke (only a few Japanese words, but enough to get my question across) to an older man whilst on the train, asking him where we were on the train map. He grunted and kind of snubbed me, even did the “Oh my phone is ringing” trick. So we got off the train and tried calling Jo, finally some luck. 

Next it was back to Jo’s place which (is up a billion stairs from the station) to dump our gear, take a breather for 10 mins then out the door again. Jo lives 1 stop from Yokohama, near the Hodogaya station. We travelled back to Yokohama for lunch. A cosy yet full on sushi train (the real kind). Most of the train was raw fish with the occasional raw beef or raw prawn dishes. I had salmon on rice, prawns on rice, boiled octopus and some wite fish which was flame torched lightly. The green tea doesn’t get served to you, instead you take a cup from the 2nd train (more like a conveyor system, but I’ll call it a train) which is directly under the top train, put some green tea powder in a cup and fill it up with hot water from a tap at your table. 

Next up was a visit to Harajuku, which is located near Shabuya. 

Before I write any more, I’ll try to explain Tokyo as much as I’ve been told. If you’re in the area of Tokyo and you ask someone for directions to Tokyo, they can’t tell you, basicalkly because Tokyo is so huge, it’s broken up into little areas, which all blend into each other. You can go up a tall building and see another CBD in the distance. 

So anyway, Harajuku seems to be the place for fashion. Jo was showing Tara all the cool vintage shops (the first time I heared the term vintage shop, was in Sydney, and it’s NOTHING like an op shop) and naturally I was being the tag along. I did however manage to get a wicked shirt that has the design of a full dinner suit on the front. Takeshite Dori, the main street we walked down wasva was a real eye opener. Girls dressed up to look like dolls, goths etc. Everyone is trying to be cool in their own special way. Tara and Jo stopped may times and tried on sunnies and had me take their photo. 

Next we took a walk down a side street to visit this little cafe/art gallery which was pretty grungey and gritty, but had some cool artwork there. The front of the building was covered in scaffolding and painted red. I wish I had taken a photo. Might try to when we come back to Tokyo after Nikko. 

Back to the main street, and down some stairs to this very very large and well organsed vintage shop. They had plenty of stuff there all neatly sorted into styles and colours. Mostly womens stuff, however I did try on some jeans which were way too small for me. Tara got herself a nice red top which I’m sure she would bang on about if it was her writing this, and because she’s not I’m moving on. 

Around the corner, the shops seemed to get very up market. On the way to look for this  mall Jo wanted to show us, we ended up going down some stairs we thought might have been the entrance, but it was the entry to a very cool and slick shop with trendy modern homewares and gifts. Such as a wooden bedside table alarm clock radio where the LCD time readout shown through the timber grain (hard to explain, and yes I should have taken a pic, but oh well), calculaters made in the style of the number pad from a keyboard, an electronic candle you lit with an electronic match. The girls were fascinated with this robotic dinosaur which was touch sensitive and responded to chin rubs and back tickles. Leaving the store we made out way to this mall which was a little eerier, the calming music didn’t seem right. We didn’t stay long. 

Walking down the yuppie street again (Omotesando), we walked past Ellen Paige! That was pretty darn cool. Jo had her celeb spotting eyes on. I should have stopped to be that annoying tourist and ask to have my pic taken with her. I’m bummbed I didn’t. She was dressed in similar style clothes as she was in the movie Juno. We later noticed that the movie is being released in Japan, hence why she was probably here. 

Tired and in need of something to eat and drink, Jo took us to this cafe called Cafe 360º where I had another water based iced coffee (it’s really odd) and some wedges. Tara had green tea cake with traditional red bean sweet paste thing (her words) and cream and a latte. Jo had Japanese style pasta. The cafe was indeed 360 degrees round and pretty trendy, think west end meets newfarm. Smoking still exists in restaurants here and did give me the shits. 

After the cafe we visited Meiji Jingu, a temple close by, washed our hands with water from special pond thing,flicked a coin or two (some aussie silver) into the prayer box, clapped twice, made a wish, and took photos. 

Back to the train and getting off at Shinjuku, we visited a government building which had a free lift to the top. Did the usual thing of taking pics and goshing at how big this place is. 

We had to visit the bar where Bill Murries character sits to sip on his Suntory, so off to the Park Hyatt Hotel, up a few lifts and there we were, in the middle of yutz central. Dressed in my cons and looking so far out off place I stood on soft spotless carpet surrounded by decedant features and very pollite Japanese hotel workers. Even the lifts lights would dim between floors to match the brightness level when the doors opened. 

I’m sorry this post is so long, but it was a very full day. 

Back to Shabuya to see the crowds crossing at the famous intersection. Took some pics and filmed it, from both Starbucks’ 2nd floor and as a foot soldier on the ground. 

Caught a train to Sangengaya to have dinner at Watami Isezaki. It’s pretty cool, you do the whole, take your shoes off before going in. We sat up at the bar to eat, which had a bit of a gulley for your feet so you sit level with the floor. The place was pretty stereo typical Japanese (go figure) with the rice paper walls, dim lighting and wooden floors. Lucky for us there was  HUGE point and choose menu. Jo picked us some of her favourites using the phrase “kore” and pointing, kore meaning “this here”. The first drink I had was a kiwi sour, Tara had a ume highglass (shit) and then the next drink I had was a jasmine tea with shochu (also very shit, reminded me of chaturse). All in all the food was fantastic, best meal so far. 

A few trains to get home, a massive walk up the bitch of a hill Jo lives on top of and finally it’s over….for now. 

Our highlights for the day:
1. Dinner
2. Seeing Jo
2. Seeing Ellen Paige
4. Sneaking up the Hyatt to find that bar (still not sure which one it was)
5. Shinkansen

Today was an early start with Ricky and I waking up at 7am and out and about by about 8am after a bowl of Japanese Corn Flakes. Ricky had been reading up about Osaka in his trusted lonely planet guide and decided a trip to the Tensunka Tower was in order. As far as I was concerned this area was a bit dodgie, especially when we entered a strange store selling ‘jam sand cookies’ with the store assistants freaking Ricky out with their repeated high pitched ‘Iraishaimase’ meaning welcome to our store but sounding more like a boiling kettle. Anyway, I’m still living down the fact that I didn’t want to pay 12000 yen to climb to the top of the tower, considering Ricky’s sudden obsession with going up high buildings everywhere from this point on.

We then decided to check out the Tennoji Zoo as it was right next door and for 500 yen sounded like a pretty sweet deal. We were wrong. This was the WORST zoo I could have imagined! My initial impression was seeing a Oranguantang sitting in the very corner of a small caged room. When I walked up to him with a packed a biscuits in my hand he sat up, stuck his hand through the cage and looked straight at me with a hopeful face. I said ’sorry mate, I don’t think these would be too good for you…’ and he sat back, slouched, with the most horribly sad expression on his face. Still shocked from the unhappiness of the animals I saw we headed over to check out an elephant. The ‘phant came over to the water seperating us and then ATE SOME PLASTIC FROM THE WATER! With eye fulls of school kids in every direction, I came to the conculsion that the zoo is mainly servicing education. Needless to say, Ricky and I didn’t stick around for too long as I was finding this place far too depressing.

It was then off to check out Osaka’s portside. After riding 2 trains and a tram we made it to the Cosmostower. We paid 800 yen to ride a glass lift to the 52 story and then another 3 levels of esculator to the very top. Here we found ourselves looking out over all of Osaka city feeling a bit like I was going to fall out from the glass. Ricky spent 200 yen to look through the big binolculars for about 1 minute. I think he learnt from that experience.

Not far from where we were, but still 1 tram and 1 train ride away, we found ourselves at Tampozan where they have the world’s largest ferris wheel which, of course, Ricky had to go on. In the same area was a large shopping complex which we had a little wander in, and then ducked into the Aquarium and Art Museum before deciding that our arses were too tight to pay the fees to go in. Ricky had a bad headache by now so off we were back to the hotel for a little bit.

By 8pm we were leaving home again, off to see another big glass elevator building. This one was the Umeda Sky Building which locals hate because it looks like something out of a sci-fi flick. On our way we did a great job of point and order at another little resteraunt in the underground markets. We ordered 2 of the 3 meals available with pictures and thankfully they tasted alright. No cold noodles for Ricky today. Umeda Sky Building had one elevator ride 51 foors up with 4 glass sides and a wanting-to-vomit Tara. Still, the view of Osaka at night was amazing and Ricky took his good Camera up to take some shots of the scene.

By now it’s 10pm, so we go back to Osaka station to book our Shinkansen train to Shin-Yokohama for 7:13am the next day. I’m thinking we should get straight home to pack and get to bed but the forces that be had better ideas. Ricky suggests we go one station further from our normal station and grab some stuff from the supermarket. I put my faith in Ricky’s sense of direction. Bad idea. After catching a wrong train one way and back again in the right direction we finally surface above ground. We walk a bit before Ricky realises he is very lost. We walk one way, we walk another, back another way and then another again until it is 12:30pm and I’m pissed off, crabby and tired!

I say ‘lets get a cab’
5 mins.
We’re home, packed and soon to be asleep.

Tara’s Top Five:
1. Trying Grape flavoured fanta.
2. Seeing a man in our the resteraunt we stopped in at lunch pull out his electric shaver at the table for a good 5 minute shave.
3. Passing Maccas with people smoking in it.
4. Finding an AWESOME shop full of cool Japanese stuff, I was in a similar heavan to Ricky in Yodabashi.
5. The view at night from the Umeda Sky Building.

Ricky’s Extra Top Things:
1. The goat at the zoo, licking a pole!